Portraits in disguise - NPG 1492(c)

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The original version of this miniature is in the collection of the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich. The Earl of Cumberland (1558-1605), became Queen's Champion at the Accession Day Tilt of 1590. Hilliard depicts him in this rôle, in tournament armour. He wears Queen Elizabeth's jewelled glove in his hand, a starry helmet and gauntlets lie on the ground, his pasteboard shield adorned with impresa of a sun and moon flanking the earth in eclipse, hangs on the tree. Courtiers of the sixteenth and seventeenth century enjoyed dressing up, whether for quasi-medieval tournaments or for masques. Extravagant and costly dress was a vital part of these performances.

Francis Bacon in his essay Of Masques and Triumphs summarized the essential ingredients for a successful appearance in a tournament:

"For justs, and tourneys, and barriers; the glories of them are chiefly in the chariots, wherein the challengers make their entry; especially if they be drawn with strange beasts, as lions bears camels and the like; or in the devices of their entrance; or in the bravery of their livery; or in the furniture of their horse and armour.

The Venetian ambassador, Giacomo Soranzo, wrote in 1554 that Queen Mary wore a "gown such as men wear, but fitting very close, with an under-petticoat which has a very long train; this is her ordinary costume, being also that of the gentlewomen of England."

A German visitor to London in 1592 observed that acquiring fine clothes appeared to be more important to some women than having food in the house:

"The women.........go dressed out in exceedingly fine clothes, and give all their attention to their ruffs and stuffs, to such a degree indeed, that, as I am informed, many a one does not hesitate to wear velvet in the streets, which is common with them, whilst at home perhaps they have not a piece of dry bread."

 

 

 

 

This courtier wears a slashed peascod belly doublet with short braided tabs over smooth fitting Venetians that fit tightly to just below the knee, and supporting stockings. A splendid lace ruff frames the head.

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