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Originally a term for a textile made of horsehair (1829) used for making stiff under-petticoats to support and expand the skirt, but it soon became used for the petticoat itself. The lighter and less restrictive artificial crinoline or cage crinoline petticoat appeared in 1856 with whalebone hoops, and watch-spring hoops from 1857. In 1857-59 it was domed, then pyramidal, and at its widest 1859-61. From 1865 the front became flat, before merging into the crinolette (a small cage-crinoline hooped behind) by 1868. The crinolines worn in Britain were often not as extreme as those portrayed in French fashion plates.

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'The Fashions'. Morning dress, ball dress and dress for a fancy-dress ball, February 1863, by Bonnard, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48001

'The Fashions'. Morning dress, ball dress and dress for a fancy-dress ball, February 1863

by Bonnard, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published February 1863
NPG D48001

'The Fashions'. Ball dress, March 1863, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode - NPG D48002

'The Fashions'. Ball dress, March 1863

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published March 1863
NPG D48002

'The Fashions'. Home toilet and toilet de chambre, April 1863, by Louis Berlier, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Laure Noël (née Colin) - NPG D48003

'The Fashions'. Home toilet and toilet de chambre, April 1863

by Louis Berlier, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Laure Noël (née Colin)
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published April 1863
NPG D48003

'The Fashions', June 1863, by Réville, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode - NPG D48004

'The Fashions', June 1863

by Réville, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published June 1863
NPG D48004

'The Fashions', July 1863, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode - NPG D48005

'The Fashions', July 1863

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published July 1863
NPG D48005

'The New Winter Cloaks and Mantles', October 1863, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode - NPG D48006

'The New Winter Cloaks and Mantles', October 1863

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published October 1863
NPG D48006

'The New Winter Cloaks and Mantles', October 1863, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode - NPG D48007

'The New Winter Cloaks and Mantles', October 1863

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published October 1863
NPG D48007

'The Fashions', June 1864, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode - NPG D48008

'The Fashions', June 1864

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published June 1864
NPG D48008

'The Fashions', July 1864, by Rigolet, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode - NPG D48009

'The Fashions', July 1864

by Rigolet, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published July 1864
NPG D48009

'The Fashions', July 1864, by Rigolet, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode - NPG D48010

'The Fashions', July 1864

by Rigolet, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published July 1864
NPG D48010

'The Fashions', August 1864, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode - NPG D48011

'The Fashions', August 1864

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published August 1864
NPG D48011

Promenade dresses, 1864, by A. Carrache, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix - NPG D48012

Promenade dresses, 1864

by A. Carrache, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1864
NPG D48012

Day dresses, 1864, by A. Carrache, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix - NPG D48013

Day dresses, 1864

by A. Carrache, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1864
NPG D48013

Ball dresses, 1864, by A. Lacourière, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix - NPG D48014

Ball dresses, 1864

by A. Lacourière, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1864
NPG D48014

Day and ball dresses, 1864, after Héloise Leloir (née Colin) - NPG D48015

Day and ball dresses, 1864

after Héloise Leloir (née Colin)
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1864
NPG D48015

Ball and evening dresses, 1864, published in Le Follet, Courrier des Salons, Journal des Modes, after (Adèle) Anais Toudouze (née Colin) - NPG D48016

Ball and evening dresses, 1864

published in Le Follet, Courrier des Salons, Journal des Modes, after (Adèle) Anais Toudouze (née Colin)
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1864
NPG D48016

Afternoon dresses, 1864, by A. Lacourière, probably published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix - NPG D48017

Afternoon dresses, 1864

by A. Lacourière, probably published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1864
NPG D48017

Evening dresses, 1864, by A. Carrache, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix - NPG D48018

Evening dresses, 1864

by A. Carrache, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1864
NPG D48018

'The Fashions', January 1867. Grand reception toilet, morning toilet and ball toilet for a little girl seven years old, by Paul Deferneville, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after E. Préval - NPG D48020

'The Fashions', January 1867. Grand reception toilet, morning toilet and ball toilet for a little girl seven years old

by Paul Deferneville, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after E. Préval
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published January 1867
NPG D48020

'The Fashions', January 1867. Ball toilet for a young lady, evening or dinner toilet and costume for a little girl seven years old, by Paul Deferneville, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48021

'The Fashions', January 1867. Ball toilet for a young lady, evening or dinner toilet and costume for a little girl seven years old

by Paul Deferneville, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published January 1867
NPG D48021