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Originally a term for a textile made of horsehair (1829) used for making stiff under-petticoats to support and expand the skirt, but it soon became used for the petticoat itself. The lighter and less restrictive artificial crinoline or cage crinoline petticoat appeared in 1856 with whalebone hoops, and watch-spring hoops from 1857. In 1857-59 it was domed, then pyramidal, and at its widest 1859-61. From 1865 the front became flat, before merging into the crinolette (a small cage-crinoline hooped behind) by 1868. The crinolines worn in Britain were often not as extreme as those portrayed in French fashion plates.

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'The Fashions', February 1867. Ball toilet for a young lady and dinner toilet, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48022

'The Fashions', February 1867. Ball toilet for a young lady and dinner toilet

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published February 1867
NPG D48022

'The Fashions', March 1867. Ball toilet and walking toilet, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48023

'The Fashions', March 1867. Ball toilet and walking toilet

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published March 1867
NPG D48023

'The Fashions', May 1867. Visiting toilet, country toilet, costume for a little girl between six and seven years old and costume for a little boy between eight and nine years old, by Reville, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48024

'The Fashions', May 1867. Visiting toilet, country toilet, costume for a little girl between six and seven years old and costume for a little boy between eight and nine years old

by Reville, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published May 1867
NPG D48024

'The Fashions', June 1867. Walking toilet and visiting toilet, by Amédée Bodin, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48025

'The Fashions', June 1867. Walking toilet and visiting toilet

by Amédée Bodin, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published June 1867
NPG D48025

'The Fashions', July 1867. Country toilet and seaside toilet, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48026

'The Fashions', July 1867. Country toilet and seaside toilet

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published July 1867
NPG D48026

'The Fashions', August 1867. Visiting or walking toilet, indoor toilet for the country and costume for a little girl of seven to eight years old, by Eugène Gervais, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48027

'The Fashions', August 1867. Visiting or walking toilet, indoor toilet for the country and costume for a little girl of seven to eight years old

by Eugène Gervais, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published August 1867
NPG D48027

'The Fashions', September 1867. Indoor dress, walking toilet and costume for a little girl from eight to nine years of age, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48028

'The Fashions', September 1867. Indoor dress, walking toilet and costume for a little girl from eight to nine years of age

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published September 1867
NPG D48028

'The Fashions', October 1867. Visiting toilet, bride's toilet and costume for a little girl from eight to nine years old, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48029

'The Fashions', October 1867. Visiting toilet, bride's toilet and costume for a little girl from eight to nine years old

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published October 1867
NPG D48029

'The Fashions', November 1867. Visiting toilet, indoor toilet and costume for a little girl from eight to ten years old, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48031

'The Fashions', November 1867. Visiting toilet, indoor toilet and costume for a little girl from eight to ten years old

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published November 1867
NPG D48031

'The Fashions', December 1867. Evening toilet, walking toilet and costume for a little girl of seven years old, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David - NPG D48032

'The Fashions', December 1867. Evening toilet, walking toilet and costume for a little girl of seven years old

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published December 1867
NPG D48032

'Paris Fashions for August. Toilette de Campagne. Toilette de Soirée.', after Unknown artist - NPG D48033

'Paris Fashions for August. Toilette de Campagne. Toilette de Soirée.'

after Unknown artist
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published circa August 1868
NPG D48033

Summer day and home evening dresses, 1869, by A. Lacourière, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix - NPG D48035

Summer day and home evening dresses, 1869

by A. Lacourière, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1869
NPG D48035

Carriage and visiting dresses, 1869, by A. Carrache, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix - NPG D48036

Carriage and visiting dresses, 1869

by A. Carrache, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1869
NPG D48036

Day dresses, 1869, by A. Lacourière, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix - NPG D48037

Day dresses, 1869

by A. Lacourière, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1869
NPG D48037

Summer day dress and country or seaside walking dress, 1869, by A. Lacourière, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix - NPG D48038

Summer day dress and country or seaside walking dress, 1869

by A. Lacourière, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1869
NPG D48038

Afternoon dress, 1869, by A. Lacourière, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix - NPG D48040

Afternoon dress, 1869

by A. Lacourière, published in Les Modes Parisiennes, after François-Claudius Compte-Calix
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, 1869
NPG D48040

'Paris fashions for January: The Empress and her ladies' (including Eugénie, Empress of France), published in Illustrated London News - NPG D48034

'Paris fashions for January: The Empress and her ladies' (including Eugénie, Empress of France)

published in Illustrated London News
wood engraving, published 2 January 1869
NPG D48034