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Morning walking dress, 1839

3 of 6 portraits matching these criteria:

- subject matching 'Fashion Plates: Outer garments - Shawls - India shawls; Kashmir shawls; cashmere shawls'

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Morning walking dress, 1839

published in The Court Magazine and Monthly Critic and Lady's Magazine and Museum
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published May 1839
7 5/8 in. x 5 7/8 in. (193 mm x 149 mm) paper size
acquired unknown source, 1930
Reference Collection
NPG D47756

Artistback to top

This portraitback to top

Described in the magazine:
Morning Walking Dress - Toilette de Longchamps - The very elegant dress of the sitting figure, which is of white muslin, may be made in gros de Naples, pour de soie, mousseline de laine, or any other pretty seasonable material. Corsage uni, demi-montant (half-high); a double ruche trimming is put on the corsage in form of a pelerine, coming to a point at the waist; both at back and front (see plate) this ruche is continued down the front of the skirt, a row is carried round the very lower edge of the skirt and a second row is a short distance higher up. If the dress be of white or even light coloured muslin the trimming must be a ruche of white tulle, two rows of net thickly quilled in the centre and put as close as possible together. If it be of silk the trimming must be cut at the edges en chevaux de frize, and thickly quilled; if of mousseline de laine a fine ganse must be hemmed into the edge and the trimming put on in set plaits. This is one of the most fashionable trimmings for Spring dresses and supersedes flounces in walking costumes. The sleeves of this dress are quite plain at the shoulder, the remainder very full with a deep wrist; a ruche to match that on the dress goes round the top of the sleeve. The collar is embroidered à la Louis XV and sits quite flat; round the neck is a Saint Esprit, pink ceinture fastened in front with three long ends. Hat of pink gros de Naples. The front not large but evasée, and rounded to the face with a double border all round (see plate); one corner of the front it may be observed is rounded, the other cut square to a point. The crown is not high and sits a good deal back; the trimming is of rich satin ribbon; a bow with long ends at the right side just over the string, and two follettes placed rather in a drooping position at the opposite side; these may or may not be of the colour of the bonnet; two half wreaths of flowers that contrast well are underneath the front. White gloves, bronze shoes of peau Anglaise, cambric handkerchief trimmed with deep lace.
Second, or Standing Figure. - Hat of paille poux de soie, similar to the one just described. Dress of white cashmere or fine merinos with a very deep flounce at bottom which reaches quite to the ground; full sleeves with cuffs turned up and trimmed with two small frills. Rich green cashmere shawl with a splendid border and deep fringe partaking of all the colours in the border. It may be noticed that this new fashioned shawl is not pointed at the corners. Hair in smooth bands, with braids à la Clotilde; pale yellow kid gloves.

Events of 1839back to top

Current affairs

The Bedchamber crisis strains relations between the government and the monarchy, after Queen Victoria refuses to dismiss her Whig-appointed ladies of the bedchamber at the request of the new, Conservative Prime Minister Sir Robert Peel. Peel resigns and Melbourne returns as Prime Minister.
The Grand National is first held at the Aintree race course, won by the horse Lottery, and the first Henley Royal Regatta, the rowing event, is held on the Thames.

Art and science

The French and British scientists Louis Daguerre and William Henry Fox Talbot separately publicise their experiments with the new form of photography.
The prolific journalist Harriet Martineau publishes her three decker novel Deerbrook, the story of middle class country life.


The first Opium War with China is sparked after the British government refuses to try six British soldiers accused of killing a Chinese man protecting a temple from looters. Relations were strained as Britain had promoted the drug opium in China to boost trade. Winning the war, Britain secured vital trading rights.
African captives aboard the Spanish ship La Amistad revolt, resulting in a highly publicised court case.

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