Grand visiting or carriage costume, May 1839
20 of 89 portraits by Le Follet, Courrier des Salons, Journal des Modes
© National Portrait Gallery, London
Grand visiting or carriage costume, May 1839
published by Dobbs & Co, published in The Court Magazine and Monthly Critic and Lady's Magazine and Museum, first published in Le Follet, Courrier des Salons, Journal des Modes
hand-coloured etching, line and stipple engraving, published May 1839
7 5/8 in. x 5 7/8 in. (194 mm x 148 mm) paper size
Acquired, 1930
Reference Collection
NPG D47852
Artistsback to top
- The Court Magazine and Monthly Critic and Lady's Magazine and Museum (1837-1847), Magazine. Artist or producer associated with 103 portraits.
- Dobbs & Co (active circa 1826-1840), Publishers. Artist or producer associated with 94 portraits.
- Le Follet, Courrier des Salons, Journal des Modes (1829-1892), French magazine. Artist or producer associated with 89 portraits.
This portraitback to top
Described in the magazine:
Dress of bright lavender satin. Corsage décolletée, drapé croisé made to fasten in front. The back of the corsage has a little fulness at bottom, spreading à l'éventail in fan style; the front is in five deep folds from the shoulder to the waist, where one side completely crosses over the other; the corsage has no ceinture. The sleeves are plain and tight at top, the lower part full and two bouillons between the top and full part; the wrist is extremely deep, fitting tight to the arm and reaching half way to the elbow: the plain cambric ruffle only covering half the poignet, although it is a deep ruffle. The skirt is ornamented with two flounces; the lower one reaching to the ground is very deep, the second placed immediately above it is about half its depth. These flounces are cut in scalloped dents de loup at the edge and an appropriate pattern worked in floss silk, or a fine braid work adds much to the richness of the dress. Small shawl mantelet of white taffetas embroidered all round in soie torse with a deep frill of the same (this frill might be lace). Dress hat of pink satin. The front thrown up entirely from the face; the trimming is of crêpe lisse, the colour of the hat; the brides (strings) which are left loose are trimmed all round with narrow blonde, all the trimming is of course cut on the cross way; a splendid bunch of ostrich feathers is at one side. Underneath the front of the hat is a demi-guirlande of minute flowers; across the brow is a puffing of crêpe lisse; the front hair is in smooth bands; yellow kid gloves, black satin shoes, gold necklace. This dress would make a very elegant costume d'interieur by substituting a cap for the hat in dinner dress, and adding a fichu for full dress morning costume.
Second, or Sitting Figure - Hat of blue gros d'Afrique (a kind of rich ribbed silk, imitating velours epinglé - terry velvet). It is trimmed with crêpe lisse and ornamented with white feathers. Dress of paille watered gros de Naples. Corsage low and to fit the bust; flounce edged with a piping.
Subjects & Themesback to top
- Fashion Plates: Accessories - Gloves - Kid gloves
- Fashion Plates: Activities and occasions - Carriage dress
- Fashion Plates: Activities and occasions - Dinner dress
- Fashion Plates: Activities and occasions - Full dress morning costume
- Fashion Plates: Activities and occasions - Toilette d'interieur; robe d'interieur; home dress
- Fashion Plates: Activities and occasions - Visiting dress
- Fashion Plates: Bodices - Cross-over bodices; drapé croisé
- Fashion Plates: Fabrics - Gros d'Afrique; velours d'Afrique
- Fashion Plates: Fabrics - Gros de Naples
- Fashion Plates: Fabrics - Satin
- Fashion Plates: Footwear - Satin shoes
- Fashion Plates: Hair - Bands
- Fashion Plates: Headwear - Brides
- Fashion Plates: Headwear - Dress hats
- Fashion Plates: Headwear - Ostrich feathers
- Fashion Plates: Influences - French fashions
- Fashion Plates: Outer garments - Mantelets; mantlets
- Fashion Plates: Sleeves and cuffs - Bouillons
- Fashion Plates: Trimmings and ornamentation - Dents de loup
- Fashion Plates: Undergarments - Chemisettes; habit-shirts
Events of 1839back to top
Current affairs
The Bedchamber crisis strains relations between the government and the monarchy, after Queen Victoria refuses to dismiss her Whig-appointed ladies of the bedchamber at the request of the new, Conservative Prime Minister Sir Robert Peel. Peel resigns and Melbourne returns as Prime Minister.The Grand National is first held at the Aintree race course, won by the horse Lottery, and the first Henley Royal Regatta, the rowing event, is held on the Thames.
Art and science
The French and British scientists Louis Daguerre and William Henry Fox Talbot separately publicise their experiments with the new form of photography.The prolific journalist Harriet Martineau publishes her three decker novel Deerbrook, the story of middle class country life.
International
The first Opium War with China is sparked after the British government refuses to try six British soldiers accused of killing a Chinese man protecting a temple from looters. Relations were strained as Britain had promoted the drug opium in China to boost trade. Winning the war, Britain secured vital trading rights.African captives aboard the Spanish ship La Amistad revolt, resulting in a highly publicised court case.
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