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'The Fashions'. Plate of bonnets, May 1861

4 of 40 portraits by The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine

© National Portrait Gallery, London

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'The Fashions'. Plate of bonnets, May 1861

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published May 1861
8 3/8 in. x 5 3/8 in. (213 mm x 135 mm) paper size
Acquired, 1930
Reference Collection
NPG D47988

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Described in the magazine:
No. 1 - Rice straw bonnet, trimmed with white tulle, blonde, narrow black velvet, laid on close to the edge of the blonde, and pink roses without leaves. The bandeau inside is composed of roses, black grapes, and quilled blonde. The strings are of plain white silk ribbon, with a narrow satin edge.
No. 2 - Rice straw bonnet, trimmed with poppies, ribbon, and lace; the ribbon is brought to a point on the top of the bonnet, and appears to fasten the bandeau of poppies inside. The strings commence from the top of the curtain outside, and are carried down to the ears. The curtain is made of silk, and is trimmed with a broad piece of lace.
No. 3 - White tulle bonnet, trimmed with black ribbon, black lace, and straw flowers, with cords and tassels. A small blonde ruche is placed quite at the edge of the bonnet, with rather a wider one at the top of the curtain. The strings are made of rather broad white ribbon.
No. 4 - Crêpe bonnet, trimmed with three bows of graduated lengths falling down on each side, with a bunch of daisies and white blonde at the top. A feather is placed on each side and fastened at the back of the curtain, almost concealing the crown. The curtain is made of silk, trimmed with blonde; and inside the bandeau is made of white and coloured daisies.
No. 5 - Pink crêpe bonnet, trimmed with pink ribbon; the front being pleated in long pleats. The crown is tight, and the pink ribbon is put on plain on one side, with a bow and ends on the other. A bow of the same ribbon forms the bandeau, and the strings are of broad pink silk ribbon.

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Current affairs

Death of Prince Albert, from typhoid fever. Queen Victoria goes into a long period of mourning, withdrawing from public duties, and becomes known by the satirical title 'Widow of Windsor'.

Art and science

Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management is published by her husband Sidney, who successfully maintained the Beeton brand after his wife's early death seven years later. The highly popular book, containing recipes and advice for housekeeping, appealed to the Victorian belief that a woman's role was managing the home.
Morris, Marshall, Faulkner and Company is founded, marking the start of the arts and crafts movement.

International

The American civil war begins after the Confederate army attacks Union forces at Fort Sumter in April. The Confederates, comprised of eleven southern states who seceded from the Union over the right to independence on issues such as abolition, are presided over by Jefferson Davis, formerly senator of Mississippi. Although the Union had early successes, the Confederates' victory at Bull Run sets the Union up for a long, four-year war.

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