'The Fashions'. Walking dress for June 1861
5 of 40 portraits by Samuel Orchart Beeton
'The Fashions'. Walking dress for June 1861
by Laurent François Guerdet, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode, after Jules David
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published June 1861
8 3/8 in. x 5 3/8 in. (213 mm x 135 mm) paper size
acquired unknown source, 1930
Artistsback to top
- Samuel Orchart Beeton (1831-1877), Publisher and journalist; husband of Mrs Isabella Beeton. Artist associated with 40 portraits, Sitter in 1 portrait.
- Jules David (1808-1892), French painter, illustrator and lithographer. Artist associated with 19 portraits.
- The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine (1852-1879), Magazine. Artist associated with 40 portraits.
- Laurent François Guerdet (born 1830), Engraver. Artist associated with 2 portraits.
- Le Moniteur de la Mode (1843-1913), French magazine. Artist associated with 40 portraits.
This portraitback to top
Described in the magazine:
1. Walking Dress. - The bonnet, of Belgian straw, is trimmed with green ribbon; the curtain being made of the same material. The bandeau inside is composed of white ruches, with a large mauve poppy in the centre; and the strings are made of a broad piece of green silk, pinked at the edges. The dress, of grey and white shot silk, is trimmed with bands and shamrocks of green silk. The body forms a waistcoat in front, and is trimmed with bands of the silk, put on at equal distances; to which are attached buttons, which fasten the body. The trimming on the body continues round the back, and forms a waistband. The sleeve is open, and cut up on the under-side, and is trimmed to correspond with the rest of the dress, with bands of silk and buttons, to keep the two pieces together. The front of the skirt is trimmed with straps of silk, with three buttons on each strap; and the bottom with a piece of silk five inches in depth, headed by leaves the same as the sleeve; and the pockets are trimmed in the same manner.
2. Young Lady's Toilet - The white straw hat, with a turned-up brim, is trimmed with velvet, and has a black tuft in front, in which is fastened a white ostrich feather, tipped with crimson. Paletot, fitting tightly to the figure, made of grey and black plaid silk, and bound with black silk about half an inch wide. It is made to open behind like a gentleman's coat, which is bound on the side that wraps over, and is trimmed with buttons. The sleeves, pockets, and sides of the paletot are trimmed in the same manner. With this coat, a small turned-up collar and silk cravat should be worn. The dress is made of plain glacé silk, with two fluted flounces at the bottom, each one seven inches in depth.
Subjects & Themesback to top
- Buildings and architecture
- Fashion Plates: Accessories - Pockets; pocket-holes
- Fashion Plates: Activities and occasions - Morning walking dress; walking dress
- Fashion Plates: Bodices - Waistcoat bodices
- Fashion Plates: Fabrics - Aniline dyes
- Fashion Plates: Fabrics - Glacé silk
- Fashion Plates: Fabrics - Plaid
- Fashion Plates: Fabrics - Shot silk; changeable silk
- Fashion Plates: Fabrics - Silk
- Fashion Plates: Headwear - Bavolets; curtains
- Fashion Plates: Headwear - Hairnets; résilles
- Fashion Plates: Headwear - Ostrich feathers
- Fashion Plates: Headwear - Straw hats and bonnets
- Fashion Plates: Influences - French fashions
- Fashion Plates: Influences - Military influence
- Fashion Plates: Neckwear - Cravats; neck knots; sautoirs
- Fashion Plates: Outer garments - Paletots
- Fashion Plates: Sleeves and cuffs - Engageantes; under-sleeves
- Fashion Plates: Sleeves and cuffs - Isabeau sleeves
- Fashion Plates: Undergarments - Crinolines
- Hats and head attire
Events of 1861back to top
Current affairsDeath of Prince Albert, from typhoid fever. Queen Victoria goes into a long period of mourning, withdrawing from public duties, and becomes known by the satirical title 'Widow of Windsor'.
Art and scienceMrs Beeton's Book of Household Management is published by her husband Sidney, who successfully maintained the Beeton brand after his wife's early death seven years later. The highly popular book, containing recipes and advice for housekeeping, appealed to the Victorian belief that a woman's role was managing the home.
Morris, Marshall, Faulkner and Company is founded, marking the start of the arts and crafts movement.
InternationalThe American civil war begins after the Confederate army attacks Union forces at Fort Sumter in April. The Confederates, comprised of eleven southern states who seceded from the Union over the right to independence on issues such as abolition, are presided over by Jefferson Davis, formerly senator of Mississippi. Although the Union had early successes, the Confederates' victory at Bull Run sets the Union up for a long, four-year war.
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