'The Fashions'. Walking dress, November 1861

© National Portrait Gallery, London

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'The Fashions'. Walking dress, November 1861

published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published November 1861
5 1/4 in. x 8 3/8 in. (133 mm x 212 mm) paper size
Acquired, 1930
Reference Collection
NPG D47993

Artistsback to top

This portraitback to top

Described in the magazine:
1st Figure on the left side. - The bonnet is composed of white satin, trimmed with black velvet and black and white blonde, and a bunch of flowers on each side. The mantle, which is made in a shawl shape, is composed of velvet, and trimmed with black guipure. The top of the mantle is finished off by a guipure plelerine, which is fastened behind and on the shoulders by handsome gimp rosettes with three tassels. The large sleeve, which comes to a point at the bottom, is pleated at the top of the arm under a gimp rosette and tassel. The dress consists of one of the fashionable broché silks.
2nd Figure - The turned-up hat is ornamented with a kind of fur trimming and a long drooping feather. The paletot fits tightly to the figure, and may be made of velvet or a thick cloth. It is trimmed with fur, and is made open in the front with revers, the sleeves being large and also trimmed with fur. Two little pockets ornament the front of the paletot, which are also finished off by a band of fur. There are three fancy gimp buttons on each side of the body, and the waist behind is also ornamented in the same manner with two gimp buttons. The dress may be made in silk or poplin.
Little Girl's Dress - The little Tudor hat is trimmed with blue velvet and a blue feather tipped with white. The pardessus is made to fit the figure; it is trimmed with fur, and is made with a fur pelerine or cape. The dress, which is striped, is bound at the bottom with a piece of black velvet.
3rd Figure - The bonnet is composed of velvet, and ornamented with a bunch of flowers on the top, and feathers on either side. The cloak is made with a shoulder-piece, into which the fulness is pleated; the sleeves are large, and the garment is trimmed with fur, whilst the pelerine is composed of this material. This cloak may also be made in velvet, and trimmed with chinchilla, or in corded silk, trimmed with velvet, and with a velvet pelerine. These cloaks are usually made so that they may be worn with or without the fur cape, according to the weather; and in this style are excessively convenient for the changeable English climate.
4th Figure - The velvet bonnet is ornamented with bands of satin cut on the cross-way, and roses and lace. The long jacket is made tightly fitting to the figure, in thick corded silk, and is trimmed with gimp. The back of the skirt is cut to form three large pleats behind, each of which is ornamented with a handsome gimp rosette and tassels. Bright blue poplin dress, made with quite a plain skirt.

Related worksback to top

  • NPG D47992: 'The Fashions'. Walking dress, November 1861 (from same plate)

Events of 1861back to top

Current affairs

Death of Prince Albert, from typhoid fever. Queen Victoria goes into a long period of mourning, withdrawing from public duties, and becomes known by the satirical title 'Widow of Windsor'.

Art and science

Mrs Beeton's Book of Household Management is published by her husband Sidney, who successfully maintained the Beeton brand after his wife's early death seven years later. The highly popular book, containing recipes and advice for housekeeping, appealed to the Victorian belief that a woman's role was managing the home.
Morris, Marshall, Faulkner and Company is founded, marking the start of the arts and crafts movement.

International

The American civil war begins after the Confederate army attacks Union forces at Fort Sumter in April. The Confederates, comprised of eleven southern states who seceded from the Union over the right to independence on issues such as abolition, are presided over by Jefferson Davis, formerly senator of Mississippi. Although the Union had early successes, the Confederates' victory at Bull Run sets the Union up for a long, four-year war.

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