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'The Fashions'. Ball dress and morning dress, January 1863

16 of 40 portraits by Samuel Orchart Beeton

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'The Fashions'. Ball dress and morning dress, January 1863

by Amédée Bodin, published by Samuel Orchart Beeton, published in The Englishwoman's Domestic Magazine, first published in Le Moniteur de la Mode
hand-coloured etching and line engraving, published January 1863
8 1/4 in. x 5 3/8 in. (211 mm x 135 mm) paper size
Acquired, 1930
Reference Collection
NPG D48000

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Described in the magazine:
Ball Dress. - The hair is parted on one side, and is arranged in three frizzed curls over the forehead. It is also very much frizzed behind and at the side. A diadem of roses and leaves is worn at the top of the head, which terminates in white blonde lappets behind, edged with black. The under-skirt of the dress may either be made of white satin or glacé silk. It is covered with white tulle, trimmed with black lace ruching, and studded with red roses. On each seam the tulle lace and roses are carried as high as the waist, whilst between each of these straight trimmings the tulle is lightly puffed over the silk crossways. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with a ruching of lace, put on in scallops, and the tulle is studded to the height of about 15 inches with roses. The top of the bodice is ornamented with a drapery of tulle, trimmed with 3 rows of lace ruching. The sleeves, trimmed to correspond, are looped up with roses towards the inner part of the arm.
Morning Dress. - Hair very much frizzed, surmounted by an amber bow, edged with black lace. Dress and Veste Française in plum-coloured silk rep, braided in black, with gilet and sleeves of amber watered silk, also braided in black. The Veste Française is of the Zouave jacket shape in front, and is arranged with a pleated basque or swallow-tail behind. This model is one of the Parisian novelties, and, from what we understand, is likely to meet with a great success. Muslin cravat, tied in a large bow. A coloured dress, and black silk gilet and under-sleeves, would look very prettily; or a black silk dress, with coloured gilet and sleeves, would have a very good effect.

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Events of 1863back to top

Current affairs

The opening of the world's first underground railway, with the Metropolitan Railway running trains between Bishop's Street, Padington and Farringdon. Work had begun in 1860, using the 'cut-and-cover' method of construction. The Metropolitan line inspired the construction of other underground railways - the Parisian 'Metro' took its name from the line.
The Football Association is founded.

Art and science

Julia Margaret Cameron takes up photography, taking portraits of some of the most celebrated figures of the day, with her romantic style capturing the sense of nostalgia and longing that characterised the age.
Kingsley's Water Babies; A Fairy Tale for Children is published, the hugely popular tale of drowned chimney sweep Tom's moral education in the river world of the water babies. It inspired the 1978 film starring James Mason.

International

At an international conference, the Geneva Public Welfare Society calls on the sixteen nations present to form voluntary units to help the wartime wounded. The society, comprised of five Swiss citizens and led by Henri Dunant, who had been deeply affected by the casualties he had witnessed at the Battle of Solferino, became the National Red Cross Societies, adopting the emblem of a red cross on white background.

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